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4/12/04 FINAL REPORT
It was so nice to see the welcoming committee at the Syracuse airport Wednesday night. Thank you all for coming and for waiting the extra hour for our flight.
This "field" report is sent from the comfort of my home in Cooperstown, NY. I thought a final one documenting our last few days should be sent so everyone who has been following our adventures will know how the story ends.
Our final weekend in Mali was a whirlwind of activities. The District Conference where we did an emotional presentation, a last-minute audience with Mali's first lady, going away parties, and final shopping sprees in the market filled our days. Several friends, including Bouba and Doudou, saw us off. How does one say good-bye to people who have been so generous?
Our flight to Paris left at 10:55pm. The Malian night air was still warm. The moon was full and the stars shown brightly - something we didn't see very often due to the Harmattan winds. Our five week trip flashes through my mind as I walk across the tarmac to the plane. Before stepping onto the stairs, I turn around. In the doorway of the airport I see DG Hamadoun Ba and his wife, Rokia, waving good-bye. What a final image! It all seems unreal now.
We spent two days in Paris getting some much need rest, relaxing, and seeing some sights. Shari's brother, Brian, and his wife, Song, showed us Paris as seen by locals. I think Barb saw and did more in 48 hours than most people do in a week! Others in the group relished in enjoying a glass of wine or a coffee in a sidewalk cafe, shopping, or just walking through this beautiful city. It was nice not having an itinerary. We are thankful to Brian and Song for loaning us sweaters and coats. Five weeks in +100 F temperatures made Paris seem damp and cold.
British Airways upgraded us to business class on the London to Chicago flight. This made the trip home more pleasant as we all got to sleep and streach out in comfort. We felt pampered and special.
Our final flight from Chicago to Syracuse was delayed one hour, but it didn't matter. We landed safely at about 9:30 pm.
After being home for a few days, I am beginning to process all I experienced. The one conclusion I've reached confirms what other GSE participants told me prior to leaving - a Group Study Exchange will change your life! Thank you to all who made it such a postive experience.
Michael Jerome
D7170 GSE Team Leader
Cooperstown, NY
3/30/04
Two for the price of one today,the first from team member Debra Giordano and the second from team member Barbara Harman. Both messages highlight the highly valued personal interactions the team has enjoyed, and there is a wistful sense of time drawing to a close all too soon as the team contemplates how to make this group exchange meaningful in all senses. Eileen Bach
First from Debra . . .
Hello from Mali!
We have been back in Bamako for a few days now and everyone is settling in with their host families fine. We have been busy with vocational visits and last night was our final Rotary meeting (except for the District Conference) and was a large one. All four Bamako Rotary clubs had a combined meeting.
We have begun to run into some of our Rotarian friends from the other countries we visited as they arrive in town for the conference. These are joyous reunions, but also remind us of our final goodbyes that are coming in just a few short days.
We find ourselves spending nearly every moment we have together reflecting on what we have seen, how we have changed, and how we can best fulfill our responsibilities to Rotary and as more enlightened members of a global community.
Our views on poverty, globalization, cultural diversity, environmental and health issues, and politics have been reshaped over and over as we get deeper in the layers of each issue and take time to process and gather more views throughout our journey. Our conversations together on these concerns are long, passionate, varied, respectful, and always entertaining.
We have found that it is one thing to believe that you are getting closer to defining and understanding the challenges, but it is much more difficult to decide what can and should be done. We anticipate that this process will go on and on within each of our hearts and minds for some time to come. One thing that we all know for certain is that each of us has changed in ways that we are proud of. We hope that we can somehow communicate and spread our learnings to others.
See you all soon! Debbie
And now from Barb . . .
Hello All,
Well I do not get on the internet too often and I managed to write an email and then not have it successfully sent last time. I will try again. I have appreciated hearing from all who have written. You can not imagine how valuable the connection is. Even when just a short note. Thank you.
So our trip is coming to a close and we have seen so much, learned so much and felt even more. I have decided that West African people are among some of the nicest, most sincere individuals that I have had the pleasure to know. I am grateful to have been accepted into thier families and begin, just begin, to understand them and their needs. I have really enjoyed interacting with the indigenous people. They have such strength both in body and mind. I only hope that I will have some pictures and stories that will adequately share my experience.
For those of you who thought we would be losing weight, not to worry, I think we have gained. We are healthy and happy with some sniffles and some ¨torista¨ issues but other than that fine. Even had a malaria test today, to which we were negative. It sad to recognize that our adventure will soon be ending; but I will be looking forward to being with you all at home.
My love to all and best wishes to my sister Ruth who will be married to Harris this Saturday, April 3. May they always be as happy as they are now. Love, Barb
3/27/04
What follows is the most recent field report from team leader Michael Jerome. It is hard to believe that their (physical) journey is in the final stages, with the district conference approaching rapidly. We'll soon have them home with us again, and can enjoy this incredible experience as they share photos and recount their days. Eileen Bach
Today is a rest day for us so we are checking emails and actually relaxing by the pool of a posh hotel in Bamako! This could be a vocational visit for me!
I know others have emailed you, but I wanted to let you and everyone know that this has been an unbelievable experience. All the Rotarians and others we've met have been so generoous. We are overwhelmed.
The past five days were spent touring outside of Bamako with Doudou, a young Rotarian, and Thomba, the driver. Our road trip included Segou, the Dogon Country, Bandiagara, Mopti, and Djenne. Previosly these were just names on the map. Now they are real places and the sites, sounds, smells remain. All of us were fascinated by this very exotic country.
This week is the district conference. We have some vocational visits scheduled in the beginning of the week. Thursday is the governor's welcome and then a formal gala on Saturday. We're trying to come up with some appropriate African attire.
We are all looking forward to seeing the Rotarians we've met previously. It will be hard to say good-bye.
Michael
3/24/04
What follows is a thoughtful overview of the team's experiences thus far, written by team member Shari Haldeman. Best wishes - Eileen Bach
I have finally found a moment to write, and to share a few thoughts regarding this spectacular journey through West Africa. This truly has been a trip of a life time....from the most beautiful relationships formed in Ghana; to the heart-wrenching stories in Togo; to the contagious joy in Benin; and the far-reaching landscape and culture of Mali, none of us could have ever anticipated such a full experience that will no doubt last each of us a lifetime.
We are now in the Mopti region of Mali, having just returned from the historical Dogon region. The opportunity to witness such an indigenous and culturally rich community of people is beyond words. I am thankful that as a group we did not feel pity for the perceived poverty and lack of resources, but rather rejoiced in the beauty of the surroundings, and the persistence of a people to persevere and be proud of their heritage. I suppose the difficult part for me personally, was feeling like I was an intruder and a spectator. I guess I can't figure out why we as Westerners feel entitled to "tour" what is someone else's sacred land and home; it no doubt affects the integrity of culture (as we later discussed with some local Peace Corps volunteers). Nevertheless, I do believe this team has been remarkable under the circumstances, and has always interacted with the upmost respect and care.
We all remain healthy and happy. We of course look forward to seeing friends and family soon, but at the same time, we are not yet ready to leave this beautiful African space, and all the dear friends we have met along the way.
I could go on for hours about our experience here, and the things we have seen -- orphanages, women's centers, factories, farms, nature preserves, water communities on stilts, goats, goats, and more goats. We have taken pictures, but they can never do justice to the senses, and to the emotion felt every second of the day. We will do our very best to share these treasures upon our return.
Much love to everyone, and please count every blessing you have. There is an entire world out here that has much less than we could ever imagine, yet never neglects to appreciate each and every day.
Peace, Shari
3/22/04
This message was sent to D. 7170 Committee Chair Dale Flinn.
The team has arrived safely in Bamako on Saturday, 20. After 2 days of rest in a hotel, they left Bamako today to pursue their Itinerary. They are just a wonderful team. If we could we would ask them to stay longer with us.
Yours in Rotary,
Boubacar
D9100, 2003-2004 GSE Chair
3/21/04
This field report was written by Kristen Sloth some time ago but did not get through to me until today. It gives a clear image of the problems faced by the people of Togo and perhaps will spur us all to make a difference in their lives in whatever way we can. Best wishes - Eileen Bach
Greetings from Togo,
We just got back from staying overnight in a village about an hour outside of Lome. We visited a psychiatric center on the way that left us all quite drained when considering the conditions, lack of basic needs, the untrained staff, and the men and women who were locked up in cells together who are too violent to be with the others.
We are usually taken to projects that the local Rotary group is involved with so we can see what they are doing and how we ... our Rotary district... may be able to develop a relationship with them and help them financially. The need is everywhere and to a degree that it is hard to know where to start.
We visited Togoville and saw a school for the blind that seemed well maintained and cared for by Catholic nuns. It looked relatively clean and the few residents we saw looked well cared for. We also stopped and visited a very expensive boarding school for boys and girls where the small bedrooms house sixteen per room.
Things are just very different here in almost every way. We keep trying not to judge...we say things are different...not necessarily one way is better than the other...but it is often hard to convince ourselves of that. So we experience poverty...or more correctly, we witness poverty everyday in many ways.
Contrarily the last two days we stayed in the elite of the elite's second home. In the USA it would cost millions....swimming pool, beautiful gardens, about ten spare bedrooms with private baths, etc; so needless to say we are well cared for by Rotary. We really appreciate this. At the same time it is hard to reconcile the two. We were told to expect the unexpected and every day brings new unknowns.
We all miss our family and friends. We get along great as a team and please know that we are in good hands here.
We will try to keep everyone updated as much as possible.
Love to all, Kristin and team
You will no doubt be touched by Barbara Harman's heartfelt account, which just came ten minutes ago, of what this trip has meant to her. For those of you missing your loved ones, this may serve as a reminder of how important this Rotary group study exchange is. Eileen Bach
Hi All, Finally on a computer again and maybe have a little more time. I am glad to hear from people, thank you. It is really nice to hear from those I love and care about. Not only because I feel so far away but being here in West Africa has made me recognize how much we have. Not only in material wealth but in opportunity and time.
I have come to love much of what Africa is, the people the respect, the care, the dignity. We are surrounded by so many people that care so much about us and want us to know their country and their people. I have been very fortunate to be in great host homes where I have made some great friends and feel a tremendous connection to them and all they offer. The visits we have made have convinced me that I could make a difference in a place like this. But I have also come to realize that I would want to have someone with me. Bill, are you ready? Africa is becoming a part of my soul. We have spent almost three weeks in three countries and seen so much and learned so much. People are very willing take you into their lives and you could easily become part of something here.
We are now in Mali for the next two weeks: We will explore some regions rich in culture, history and people. If we continue to be involved with the same quality of people that we have been it will be a wonderful two weeks: The temperature has been more than 100 degrees [I assume that notation is100" ] most days, with tremendous humidity in Ghana, Togo, and Benin. Mali is hot, but drier.
I had a bit of "the runs" for two days but that has passed. The food has been exciting and delicious, the people even more so. The school children have loved the books that the Cooperstown students made and have made pages for me to bring back and great stories and answers to many questions.
I really do feel that I have become a part of things here; I feel like I fit in and have little trouble communicating even in countries that are French speaking I have managed to become involved and connected. I am happy, healthy and miss you all dearly.
I send a kiss and a hug to those I love. I hope all are well and would love to hear from you.
Love, Barb
3/20/04This is just a note to let you know that all is well with our team in West Africa. The team members were able to phone home to let family members know that they have not had access to computers while in Benin, thus the lack of communication. They report that they have been "treated like royalty", have met ambassadors, and have not been ill at all.
Today they set out for Mali, where they will spend the remainder of their time, including the International Rotary conference held in Bamako, Mali during the first week in April (I'm not certain of the exact title used for the meeting). They have an exciting schedule of travel while in Mali, including a trip to Dogon country, which the team studied prior to departure.
I'll be sure to pass on any field reports as soon as I receive them. Eileen Bach
3/16/04
What follows is the most recent Field Report, written by team member Kristin Sloth who, as a massage therapist, is seeing parts of society most of us miss. What an incredible experience the team is having... Eileen Bach
Hi everyone,
Yesterday (Monday) was a great day as we got to see some local artists and an artisans school. Art is part of every culture and it was helpful to get to see that side of their life here.
We visited a Handicap Center where they do art, repair shoes, and the blind do massage. They train the handicap to be independent. It is a project that needs help to get back on their feet and one I personally hope we will consider when we return to the states.
Missing everyone. Much love, Kristin
3/11/04
What follows is the most recent Rotary GSE Field Report, received today from team member Barbara Harman, who hints at moving stories to come... What an incredible experience they are having... I resisted the English teacher's temptation to correct French keyboard blips so that the full impact of this experience may be more evident. Eileen Bach
Excuse spelling, french keyboard, In <lome, Togo at university. Arrived Togo Tuesday qll is well. quick orientation. Settled in with hosts and off to rotqry , meeting. Wednesdqy am met US anbassador, then shopped in the grand market. Bought materiql to have outfits made for each of to wear qt the distrit conference. toured a facility for ho,eless children, quite moving; First presentqtion in french pal mal. today separate vocation tours. Very interesting, eqch quite different Barb visited school and fishing village, very poor, but hard working Shari visited an orphanage qnd family resource center. Women and children were living in conditions you could never i,agine, worse thqn squallor. Deb visited a trqining center qand two business,s all decqdes old. <kristin went to an orthopedic center and spa. Mike toured severql hotels and met the national direcotr of tourism
Hi to all We are all well and send our love. Barb
3/9/04
Today I received this BRIEF report from team member Debra Giordano. It sounds as if the group is happy and well cared for, wanting to ensure you all of their well being despite the difficulties of communication from West Africa. Reminder: This is the fourth email but just the third field report from West Africa. Eileen Bach
Very brief. French computer different keys. We arrived in Togo this evening. All is well. Sad to say goodbye to our new friends in Ghana. We are all missing our families, but are learning a lot; No more time; Must run. Deb
3/5/2004
Today I received this report from team leader Michael Jerome, titled Field Report # 2 (which it is, since the first report was from/about the Syracuse departure and the second report was the first FIELD REPORT from Africa) although I'll maintain the numbering in the subject heading to avoid confusion - unless I've confused you already! It sounds as if the group is learning a lot with warm and gracious hosts. Eileen Bach
What a day. First stop was a cocoa processing plant, then a tuna plant followed by a school. We were overwhelmed by the children. They sang and surrounded us and giggled with glee when they saw themselves in a digital camera. Barb did a quick presenrtation. Last night was our first Official Rotary meeting and we did a brief presentation of bios, etc. The booklet was a big success. Tonight is meeting #2 and then we go off to our host homes. Our host could not be nicer. Everyone has been very, very gracious. All of us are well and can't believe we are here! You may get some pictures emailed to you from Rita, our tour guide at the fish processing plant. We are feeling the heat and some of the team are loving it! Everyone is feeling well, taking our medications and adjusting nicely.
Love, Kweku Mensi (Born on Wednesday, third born) AKA Mike
3/4/2004
What follows is my first direct report from the Rotary GSE team in Accra, Ghana, written by team member Deb Giordano. This sounds like an auspicious beginning to their grand adventure! Eileen Bach
"We are all very well and enjoying ourselves immensely. Our first meeting is at 3PM today and the roller coaster ride of events and speaking engagements will begin. We do know what to expect from now forward.
"We are staying at a beautiful hotel in Ghana for our first 2 nights here. We have many comforts at this phase, with western toilets, showers, phones and computer access. We actually have to borrow the computer from the manager, which keeps him from his work.
"We all slept well and are recovering quickly from jet lag. We took our first shopping excursion today and met some truly wonderful people and made some good bargains.
"We are amazed at how friendly and beautiful the people are here. The women are all dressed in bright homemade clothing that is very stylish and perfectly fitted. They are well groomed too. We feel very plain and unattractive by comparison.
"The food is terrific and we are struggling to remember to be careful with certain things. We have all been a little careless at least once and are hoping that we do not pay a big price for it in terms of dysentery or other ailments. We are trying to help each other to be more careful.
"Our other concern is that much of our insect repellent was confiscated at the airport because it was in aerosol cans. Nobody told us that we couldn't do this. We found a market today and bought some repellent, although only 3.5% deet. Fortunately, the mosquitos seem very limited at this point.
"Well, I must sign off now as I am keeping the manager from his work. We will try to update again when we can. We think that it may be much more difficult after we go with our families tomorrow night."
Bye for now. Debbie and the Team
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